Sunday, August 30, 2009

Pig Crossing


At the top of Gotthard Pass, a narrow country lane runs off the main road for about 2.5 km along a high mountain meadow, through a small rugged Swiss farm and around the next mountain to a panoramic viewpoint.  A sign designates this a mountain bike trail, so Rick and Markham scouted it and found it passable with road bikes--despite a couple gravel stretches--and well worth the effort.  Several of us then biked out to the viewpoint.

On the return, Jim trailed us and, passing through the little farm, nearly T-boned a 300 pound pig.  Or pork-chopped it.  Luckily, Jim`s farming experience in suburban Connecticut  (chickens, goats, fish, and one pig) had prepared him to handle the situation.  He yelled, loudly, "Hey, guys!  Stop!  A pig!"  This caused a couple of us to dismount our bikes on a very steep slope, look back and decide we couldn`t be of help.  

Jim pulled out his cell phone and began snapping pictures, allowing the pig to safely cross the road, which, in turn, allowed Jim to remount his bike and chase us back to Gotthard! 

Sauna, Nakedness and Beer

Markham decided to use the hotel sauna yesterday to speed muscle recovery.  On Todd´s suggestion, he bought a cold beer and took it along, prepared for cool refresher on top of the unclothed European sauna experience.  A fellow hotel patron was already reclining in the heat, a large, SwissGerman speaking gentleman with generous body hair.  He bolted forward when Markham entered and exclaimed emphatically, "No beer!  Hot beer, no!"   Markham placed the beer outside the sauna and re-entered, to the gentleman`s satisfaction.

This has lead us to a number of theories.

1)  the man is a beer lover and objects to hot beer
2) cold beer would adversely change the microclimate of the sauna
3) beer would be too quickly absorbed by a sweaty body, leading to delirium
4) there is a rule that you take NOTHING but yourself into a Swiss sauna
5) the Swiss STILL do not have a sense of humor!

Your insights are appreciated.....

 

Leave Comments

You should now be able to leave comments without registering, if you wish.  Your comments are welcome!

Gotthard Pass





Even the name is meaningful. "Gott" is a German expletive meaning `goshdarn` or something like that, and "hard" speaks for itself.  In fact, this appears to be a pattern in the naming of Swiss mountain passes--consider "Furka Pass" (you supply the translation), which we climbed yesterday, and "Grosse Scheindigg" which we climb tomorrow.  

Be that as it may, the old road up the Gotthard compensates mightily for the 7.2% slope with its charming cobblestones.  The pass is famous historically, as it was first traversed in the early 1200`s with the building of the Devils Bridge, when it was seen as uniting the 4 disparate cultural areas of Switzerland.  The first road, the cobbled remains of which are known as the "old road", was built in the 1830`s and opened cart and wagon traffic through the pass, giving rise to Lucerne as an important Swiss city.  The Gotthard area is still considered the point where Switzerland`s four languages and cultures meet.

Today has been a gorgeous day with clear blue skies and temps rising from the 30`s into the 70`s.  Really, only photos can tell this ride story:  few cars, 8 mi. of quaint cobblestones, 18 switchbacks, and lots of historic engineering scattered amidst mountain grandeur.  (Note: see Chris`s blog referenced earlier--his photos are consistently better than mine!).  We rode to the top in small groups, just loving the day and taking in the sights.  At the top, a Swiss man was grilling bratwurst to classical music under the statue of Saint Gotthard, offering it to us and the many sight-seers for $2 a dog.  The sun shone and we relaxed with a picnic lunch before taking a short side trip to a special viewpoint.  The descent was fast, dry, and a bit shaky until we could leave the cobblestones and rejoin the new road into Andermatt.  Tomorrow we leave for our toughest climbs and a new town.


Day 4: Punting the Passes

Day 4 was supposed to be the hardest day, 102 mi. with 10,000 ft. vert.  Last night, our tour guide, Nel, suggested we simplify our planned route to the one "can´t miss" climb of the trip--the famous Gotthard old road ascent.  We´ve come to trust Nel´s appraisal of our abilities and knowledge of the Swiss terrain.  She`s native to this area, after all.  And so !voila! we turned the hardest day into the easiest day.  Which makes tomorrow the truly hardest day, featuring what Todd has dubbed, "The Red Climbs."  Red is the color of slopes in excess of 10% on our elevation profiles.  

So, today was a 28 km, 3,000 ft. vert. day for some of us.  Howie, Rick, Markham, Todd and Todd added 22 km & 2,000 ft. vert to the itinerary by climbing Oberalp Pass in the afternoon.  I took a nap and gave my legs a rest.  My excuse is, "I need to blog."  Charles and Rich took the day off entirely in favor of a train ride.

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Photos, More Blog

Chris, a member of our group, is also blogging and has a number of wonderful photos.  Check it out at:  swisscycling2009.posterous.com

Day 3 - Furka Pass





Six of us set out into a stiff wind toward Furka Pass, the others lingering at the support van.  The wind had been strong all day, and now kicked up to 20 mph with gusts that would knock our bikes sideways.  After a couple miles, Howie, Rick and I separated from the others and led up the climb.  Furka Pass is an 18 km climb, 5.6% ave., with a couple steep (12%) ramps near the top.  The wind whipped along the mountainside, sometimes with us, sometimes against us on the many switchbacks.  When it was against us, we would have all we could do to keep the bike moving upward, and one wind chute across a small bridge had us leaning sideways and forward to stay upright.  A couple times, one of us would stop to take a photo and the others would keep moving, meaning you had to pay the price of catching back on if you wanted to stop.  The chocolate milk I had at the top of Nufenen seemed to have fortified my legs--they felt stronger on the afternoon climb than the morning climb.  

We had an unspoken determination to get to the top first, and the specter of Markham bridging up from behind kept us hammering forward.  Markham, a total force on a bike!  At one point, we could see a cyclist on a switchback below, gaining on us.  "Here comes Markham," observed Rick, and we kicked up the pace.  A few minutes later, after studying the climber below, Howie determined that he did not belong to our group, and we settled back into a steady, sustainable rhythm.  Rick pulled us up a devilishly steep section, and then stopped by an Andiamo support van waiting alongside the road.  "Are we waiting?" I asked Howie.  "No," replied Howie, and we pushed on. Near the top, we hit the clouds--or maybe it was dense fog, if there`s a difference.  Visibility went down to 30 m, the road flattened and the wind hit us full frontal force.  Howie led on for a km, me tucked in comfortably on his wheel, when suddenly he pulled sideways and stopped--right at the other Andiamo van waiting alongside the road.  "Is this the top?" we asked.  We could see nothing indicating a summit.  Yes, it was the top!

Rick joined us a minute later and we quickly geared up for the descent.  It was cold, windy, wet and very low visibility, and nobody wanted to wait for the others.  The descent was freaky scary.  Howie led, I trailed because I had a flashing rear light.  Oncoming car lights appeared out of nowhere, the edge of the road was a foggy abyss, Rick, 50 ft. ahead of me, was a shadow appearing and disappearing in the fog.  When I hit a bump, cloud water would jolt off my helmet into my face.  Fingers were frozen to the break levers, and my bike shook with my own shivering.  Oncoming cars were frequent, and I decided Howie had the most dangerous position in our little group.  At one point, I pulled off to shake feeling back into my fingers and a dozen cars slowly drove by--they had been piling up behind me and I had no idea.

Somehow we got down--I don`t know the distance, but it was miles in the fog.  Abruptly, we could see countryside again and then a few rays of sunshine, and Howie and Rick were a few hundred meters ahead.  4 golfers appeared, standing beside the road overlooking a steep slope and deep valley.  I had to stop for this one.  

"Where`s the green?" I asked, and they pointed to a groomed area on the next hilltop that looked at least 700 yds. away.  

"Mountain golf!" they laughed.  

"How many strokes does it take to get to the green?"

"Four."  "Three."  "Two."  "Maybe one." They chimed in sequentially, and laughed heartily with each stroke reduction.  

We had a short photo session, and then I headed on down the road to Andermatt for a 20 min. hot shower.  Another day for the memory book.....  It was only a 50 mile day, but as Rick observed, the hardest 50 miles we had ever ridden.